Notes from a week in Paris

Esteban and I have done so much and seen so many friends over the past week that we’ve started comparing notes to make sure we’re keeping our days straight.

There are so many stories to tell — beginning perhaps with today’s superb lunch in Paris’ oldest house. But if I stop now to look for a photo and confirm the historical facts, I’ll never get to bed … and tomorrow is another big day. So instead here are a few glimpses of what I’ve seen over the past week.

The snow has finally melted but it’s still cold and damp, as the rows of empty café tables will attest.

Cafe tables 1180702 CR BLOG

During an afternoon stroll, Esteban and I stumbled onto an academic tour and were literally pushed into this medieval courtyard. (Not that we complained.)

Chanoinesse courtyard 1190693 BLOG

The clouds parted long enough a couple of nights ago to give us a gorgeous sunset. Of course, I had the color balance set wrong on my camera so here it is in black and white.

City of light 1190150 BW BLOG

I found the Eiffel Tower fenced off on this morning, but could at least still see its reflection in the mud.

Eiffel Tower in mud 1190296 CX BLOG

I KNOW EXACTLY HOW THIS DOG FEELS.

Expectant dog 1190557 CL BLOG

Because cheese.

Say cheese 1200195 BLOG

And also wonderful restaurants, like this gem our dear friend Des introduced us to in Montmartre.

Le Bon Bock 1190538 BLOG

Because it’s Paris, of course there also has to be some weirdness. I expect to have nightmares for weeks about the Musée de la Chasse (“hunting museum”) in the Marais.

Musee chasse owls 1200263 BLOG

Fortunately, there are plenty of more sedate spots in this ancient neighborhood.

Marais 1190979 BLOG

It was near here that I also found Father Théomir Devaux’s name inscribed on the Mur des Justes (“wall of the righteous”). Read my friend Louise’s story to learn why.

Theomir Devaux Mur des Justes 1190849 BLOG

Just across the river, a flock of starlings circled Notre Dame cathedral at sunset …

Notre Dame murmuration 1190129 CX CL BLOG

… while the lights of a little café in the Latin Quarter cast a cinematic glow on the street.

Odette 1190145 BLOG

Through it all, I continued to marvel at the Parisian women’s unique combination of elegance and toughness.

Parisienne in heels 1190221 BLOG

Scooter grrl 1190608 CR CX BLOG

But no matter where my adventures have taken me over the past week, at the end of the day it has always been a pleasure and a privilege to come home.

Our courtyard 1200355 BLOG

Thank you, as always, for coming along.

76 comments

  1. Your photos are a dream! I am going to Paris in two weeks and have a few specific questions for you …. how can I message you privately? Just looking at your fantastic pix makes me even more excited about getting back there!!

    best,
    Sherri

    • Hello, Sherri! Absolutely, please do msg me privately (do you know how to reach me via Facebook?). I’d be delighted to answer any questions I can. I think you’ll be arriving at the perfect time, just as the cherry blossoms are starting to bloom. 🙂

    • Thank you for the kind compliment, Anthony! I spotted the reflection because I was trying to keep my feet dry! Fortunately I had a polarizing filter with me so I could boost the contrast of the reflection.

  2. That’s the thing about Paris: no matter what’s going on, no matter how poor the weather or even with the wrong setting on the camera, there’s always some magic going on. You managed to capture it beautifully! Glad you enjoyed your week! 🙂

    • Thank you so much, Mel — and well said! We have one more week left, so there will no doubt be a few more photos to come. Cheers!

    • Merci ! C’est une de mes passions, de trouver des endroits ou petits détailes méconnus à Paris. Merci pour votre visite !

  3. I love reading about Paris through your eyes. Your photos are amazing. This series in particular reminds me of film noir. I remember walking the streets alone many years ago thinking that every corner of Paris has something to offer. Do you feel that way too? xo

    • How wonderful that some of these photos evoke the same “film noir” vibe I felt while taking them, Alys! As you observed: Every corner of this city has a story to tell, and something interesting to offer. That’s why I keep coming back! It seems that no matter how often I visit there’s always something new to discover. xx

  4. Love the dog, love Notre Dame with the flock of birds, love Notre Dame in B&W (doing it in colour is such a cliche), love the secret restaurant; but I especially love your Hopper-like treatment of the cafe Odette. I really, really love that. Bravo, Heide !!! (or should I shout “Bis!”)

    • Thank you so much, Xpat … I’m always pleased when you like my photos, but especially when you call them “Hopper-like.” I loved how that one turned out, too. And stay tuned, because there are more to come!

  5. Your pictures at once cheered me up and also gave me some serious envy! I know so many people who are in Paris right now, it makes me wish I had snuck into one of their suitcases! I love your pictures! Especially the one of the eiffel tower’s reflection. So beautiful! ❤

    • Aww, I wish you *could* have snuck into someone’s suitcase! It’s a wonderful time of year, as things are just starting to bud and bloom, and spring is definitely in the air. Maybe next year? 🙂 Thank you so much for stopping by, and for your kind words. xx

  6. As usual, GORGEOUS photos!! I don’t know if you saw my post on your blog, but I’m heading to Paris on April 7 and will be there a few days, then going on a Viking cruise (!!!) with my sister down the Rhone from Lyon to Avignon. (I wonder if the tour was so-devised because of the rhyming possibilities?!) Anyway, I wondered if you had any special recommendations for our Paris stay in particular. Haven’t been there since … 1999! Heavens! That’s way too long. We are staying at the Hotel Marriott Opera in the 9th arr on Blvd Haussmann, which will be fun and different, because the last several times I’ve stayed near Blvd Saint Germain. But your photos are just making me CRAZY excited about going! My French is barely adequate, but I have always felt welcome there, and hope that never changes. What are you up to these days? How is life? Where are you living now? Hope you are well! -sherri

    • Hello Sherri! I just sent you a message via Facebook so we can continue the conversation. But the good news is that I think you’ll still feel welcome in France, just as always — and I join you in hoping that never changes. As for the rest of it, I’ll be eager to hear more so I can give some specific recommendations. But please do let me know if the FB message doesn’t come through, yes? THANK YOU for stopping by, and for your kind words.

  7. Amazing photos and a lovely story to go along with them, I really enjoyed that tour of Paris, your photos and writing. Looking forward to reading more blogs. Thank you.

    • How amazing is it to have gone to Paris? There are no words to describe how amazing it was — or how lucky I felt the whole time. Thank you for (virtually) coming along with me, Alicia! xx

  8. Thanks for this lovely set of photos showing the details of the everyday in Paris. You have a great eye for these details of life. Some of these are familiar to me. I was told about the hunting museum but chose not to go – a good call it seems. 🙂

    FYI:
    My favourite patisserie: Du pain et des idees
    My favourite fromagerie: Laurent Dubois

    • You made a wise call in skipping the hunting museum, Mr. Draco. The old hôtel particulier in which it’s housed is lovely and worth a good stroll, but all the beheaded and taxidermied animals got to be a bit much after just a few minutes.

      But thank you for passing along YOUR favorite places! I’m a big fan of Laurent Dubois’ myself (the little shop off the Place Maubert is my favorite, although the one on the rue St. Antoine has a bigger selection). “Du pain et des idées” is new to me, though! I have officially added it to my “must visit” list for next spring. Thank you, thank you!

  9. J’aime beaucoup les ambiances nocturnes dans tes photos. Des images simples mais tellement efficaces. on a envie de dévorer tout le blog en une seule fois. Je vais m’en garder un morceau pour plus tard.

    • Merci infiniment, Fred ! Tes beaux mots me faisent vraiment contente. Je te remercie en particulier ton commentaire parce que c’est pour ça que je viens de découvrir ton blog aussi — et ici aussi on a envie de dévorer tout le blog en une seule bouchée ! 🙂 C’est bon de faire la connaissance d’autres avec la même passion, n’est-ce pas ?

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